Twenty Four Blackbirds…

Part of the “Baking and Pastry” module at I.C.E. requires a project.  This projects is to taste and critically review a pastry of our choosing from a professional patisserie.  Hardly seems like work, right?

So, I ducked out of work early and met up with Caitlin to do our project. We went to Financier Patisserie, on Stone Street.  The location is very nice, opening into quaint street, blocked to automobile traffic, creating a very quaint outdoor dining area with a definite European charm.  The weather was almost picture perfect, and you couldn’t ask for better company.

We tasted a small assortment of desserts consisting of a Coffee Eclair, a Cheesecake Dome, and a Coffee Croustillant.

I ordered the Cheesecake Dome.  I’m a big sucker for cheesecake to begin with, it’s one of the few sweet desserts I actually have a craving for on occasion, so I was looking forward to this assignment.  It was of good quality, garnished with a couple perfectly ripe raspberries.   I wanted the first bite to be like sliding into cool, silk sheets… I wanted to close my eyes and taste as river of smooth creamy vanilla. Perhaps my expectations where set a little too high in this case.  While nicely made, the flavor was nothing special.  The texture was creamy, and smooth.  Everything you would expect from a professionally made cheesecake, not a failure by any means, but it it was certainly forgettable.

We ordered a Coffe Eclaire compare to a recent class on Pate Au Choux we had.  Unforatunatly this was a minor disappointment.  The crust was firm outside, the slightest bit chewy inside, with a nice flavor and texture.  The filling was rich, creamy and had a very nice light coffee taste, that was strong, but not overly so.  However, the caramel flavored icing was entirely too sweet, and pushed an otherwise good pastry into a realm so rich that more than few bites would leave your teeth hurting.  If you are a fan of super sweet pastry, then you might enjoy this, but as I am not a fan of super sweets I didn’t.

Caitlin ordered the Coffee Croustillant, this turned out to be the highlight of the project. The mousse was firm, with a nice creamy texture, and a smooth flavor that did not overpower the rest of the components.  The coffee striping layer was perfectly flavored, staying in the background, never letting you forget it was there but not destroying the flavor of the rest of the pastry.  Overall the flavors came together perfectly.  Rich flavors working together in unison to create a perfect combination of bitter expresso and smooth sweet chocolate.  Not to sweet, not to plain… Just right. The overall texture was a pleasing combination of spongy cake, smooth creamy mousse and rich ganache.  I really enjoyed this one.

Now the overall value, unfortunately left me wanting.  Each item was around $4 each, which for a dessert isn’t unreasonable.  However, when 66% of them where a disappointment, the value the equation starts dropping pretty fast.

Taking everything into account, the whole experience was a pleasent one, the quaint location, the old world decor, the company and the quality of the pastries.  It’s definately a good place to stop and get something sweet share some conversation or even just read a book.  It’s definately someplace I would return to and try other dishes, I just wouldn’t boast the best pastries in the city…

This is a recipe for a simple pastry cream.  It is a nice filling for fruit tarts, and filled pastries like doughnuts.  This uses vanilla extract, but you can substitute other flavors to adjust to the desired taste. ( i.e. Strawberry, Maple, Chocolate)  The amount will vary depending on the flavoring used, and the desired intensity of the flavor.

This will make a little more than a quart of cream.  The recipe can be doubled or halved as needed.

Simple Vanilla Pastry Cream

1 qt Milk
3.5 oz cornstarch
8 oz Sugar
2 Whole Eggs
8 Egg Yolks
4 oz Unsalted Butter (in 1″ cubes)
.5 fl. oz. Vanilla Extract

1. Dissolve cornstarch in about 20% of the milk.
2. Combine remaining milk with sugar in pot, and bring to a boil.
3. Whisk Eggs/Yolks into cornstarch slurry
4. Temper cornstarch mixture into boiling milk
5. Whisk vigorously until pastry cream thickens, and returns to a boil
6. Boil for one full minute while whisking vigorously.
7. Remove from heat and add butter and vanilla, whisk until smooth.
8. Transfer to a steel mixing bowl in an ice bath to cool rapidly.
9. Use when cool to touch, or store in refrigerator.

The basis for this recipe is from a dish we created in Culinary School, updated the ingredient list to match how I prepared it. Presentation wise I prefer to fabricate each chicken into 6 pieces.  2 Breasts, 2 full wings, and 2 whole legs (Thigh and Drumstick connected), however it works equally well with any combination of bone-in chicken cuts of your choice.

This recipe makes a lot of chicken (18 pieces minimally),  You can use less, but keep in mind the sauce amount is based on a 3 whole chickens worth of parts.  If you want to do less, you should adjust the sauce recipe to an appropriate amount, the sauce should just cover all the chicken pieces while simmering.

Just a side note on the overall taste, the cinnamon can be a little strong, so you may want to use just one stick if you want a less fragrant taste.  You can mix and match the dry sherry and chinese cooking wine as you like, keeping within the 2 fl. oz. range of total liquid, but I find a mixture of the two presents a smooth flavor profile over strictly one or the other..

Red Chicken (Chinese BBQ)

Chicken
3 Chickens, Skin on, Bone-In, (6-10 pieces each)
1 fl oz Sesame Oil
Salt and Pepper to taste
Canola Oil as Needed

Sauce
4 fl oz. Dark Soy Sauce
1 oz Chinese Cooking Wine
1 oz Dry Sherry
2 oz Granulated Sugar
3 Tbsp Sliced Fresh Ginger Root
1 bnch Scallions, cut to 1″ pieces, crushed
2 sticks Cinnamon
2 Orange Zest (Zest from 2 Oranges)
2 tsp Chinese Five-Spice Powder
3 Pieces Star Anise
32 fl oz Water
24 fl oz Hoisin Sauce
32 oz Ketchup

1. Combine all Sauce Ingredients except Star Anise, Hoisin and Ketchup in large pot.  Bring to a boil, and then simmer for 15 minutes
2. Pat Chicken pieces dry and season with salt and pepper.
3. Saute chicken pieces with Canola Oil and Sesame Oil in seperate pan until skin/outside is dark golden brown. Chicken will undercooked at this point. Reserve.
4. Add Hoisin and Ketchup to sauce, and stir to combine.
5. Add Chicken to Sauce (Should just cover chicken), and bring to a medium simmer.
6. Simmer until chicken joints are fork tender.  (Check after 30 minutes)  Remove from heat and serve when ready.

I threw this recipe together from some staples and some leftovers.  Make sure you play with types and amounts of mushrooms in the stuffing, as well as the herbs.  If you like a dryer stuffing, you could add breadcrumbs, however I found that the stuffing as is helped keep the chicken breast moist while cooking in the oven.  Another variation would be to sauté chicken breasts until brown, and finish in oven for 10-12 minutes.

Sausage Stuffed Chicken Supremé

• Main:
• 2 Chicken Supremé with pocket cut into side.  (Boneless Chicken Breast with first wing joint attached and frenched)
• Salt and Pepper to Taste

• Stuffing:
• 1 link Hot Italian Sausage (Casing removed)
• 1/2 cup Baby Portabella Mushrooms
• 1/2 cup Shitake Mushrooms
• 1/2 cup Spanish (yellow) Onions
• 1 Spring fresh Thyme leaves
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• Extra Virgin Olive Oil as needed
• Salt & Pepper to Taste

Process:

Mix all ingredients in the food processor, until well mixed together.  You are looking for almost a paste consistency.  Adjust seasoning. Stuff pocket cut into side of chicken with stuffing, until full.   Roast in 350˚oven for ~15-20 minutes, turning chicken about halfway through, and at the end so presentation side is facing up.  Broil on High to finish.  Let rest 5 minutes on rack.

Sauteéd Green Beans

• 8 oz French Green Beans, Stems Removed
• 1 link Hot Italian Sausage ( Casing Removed )
• 1/4 cup Portabello Mushrooms
• 1/4 cup Shitake Mushrooms
• 4 oz sliced Yellow Onions ( 1/8th-1/4th inch slices)
• 2 oz Clarified Butter
• 4 oz White Wine
• Salt and Pepper to Taste

Process: Blanche Green Beans in boiling salted water.  Shock in cold water.  Heat sauté  pan, then heat 1 oz clarified butter.  Add Sausage and break up into small pieces, cook untill brown.  Add mushrooms and onions sauté until onions are translucent, and mushrooms brown lightly.  Deglaze with white wine, and cook until dry.  Add remaining butter, and then toss green beans until cooked through.  adjust seasoning and serve.

The weatherman said it was going to be in the 70’s today.  There is a natural law written somewhere next to the law of gravity, that states on these days you MUST be outside.  So, Karith and I looked for something to do outdoors.

We ended up in Bronx’s famed Arthur Avenue.  If your not familiar with the area, here’s the information freshly poached from the wikipedia entry:

“Arthur Avenue is located in the Fordham section of New York City’s northernmost borough, The Bronx, It was once the heart of the Bronx’s “Little Italy“. In this context, “Little Italy” generally refers to Arthur Avenue and East 187th Street (map). Although the historical and commercial center of Little Italy is Arthur Avenue itself, the area stretches across East 187th Street from Arthur Avenue to Prospect Avenue, and is similarly lined with delis, bakeries, cafes, and various Italian merchants. Most recently, this retail strip has transitioned with a growing number of Albanian and Mexican restaurants, bodegas, and other businesses. Still, Arthur Ave and Morris Park are viewed as the Bronx’s primary Italian-American communities.”

We wanted something where we could eat outside and enjoy the near perfect weather, while having some of the great Italian food that this neighborhood is known for.  After walking around a bit, we found Antonio’s Trattoria[link], a nice little place on the east side of the neighborhood, quiet and out of the way.

The first impressions of this place is definitely laid back and friendly, the staff greeted us as friends, and service was always friendly. The open air layout, captured the warm breeze, while keeping us in the shade from the sun, while we enjoyed the gorgeous day. Our waitress, was attentive and out water glasses where not left empty long, a huge pet peeve of mine.

We started with salads.  Karith ordered a Tstagione Salad, and I ordered one of the specials, a salad with fresh sweet corn, ripe avocado, and king crab.  Kairth enjoyed her salad, but did make the comment it was a little heavy on the dressing, occupied with my own salad I neglected to try hers.  My salad, was tasty, but needed some seasoning to really bring the flavors out, a dash of salt and pepper did the trick.

Karith decided on the Pasta & Pollo.  A spicy ziti pasta, sautéed with chicken, mushrooms, spicy pepperoncinis, in a white wine lemon sauce.  The waitress warned us that it was a bit spicy, and true to her word it was.  The flavors came together wonderfully, with the acidity of the wine and lemon meshing well with the mellow flavor of the pasta and chicken.  The heat was subtle, and left your palette with the subtle warm glow.

I chose the Chicken Parmigiana, a somewhat of an italian cliche I know, but it’s a dish that in my opinion can test the mettle of a good italian restaurant.  Bringing together the seasoning of the breading, chicken and tomato sauce, seems easy on paper but in practice takes a skilled hand.  Antonio’s did not disappoint in this feat, the sauce was flavorful, but not overpowering, allowing the crispy seasoning of the chicken to sneak through, and add a nice finish to each bite.

The food pacing was a little slow, but taken into consideration with the warm weather, it became perfect timing, and the price was reasonable for the area, with a total cost of 64$ after taxes and tip, with plentiful cool tap water to drink.

I would definitely return here, for the warm smiles, good food, and great ambiance…